What
Happens To Wheat From Seed To Storage
By Jen Allbritton, Certified Nutritionist
Wheat—America’s grain of choice. Its hardy, glutenous
consistency makes it practical for a variety of foodstuffs—cakes,
breads, pastas, cookies, bagels, pretzels and cereals that have
been puffed, shredded and shaped. This ancient grain can actually
be very nutritious when it is grown and prepared in the appropriate
manner. Unfortunately, the indiscretions inflicted by our modern
farming techniques and milling practices have dramatically reduced
the quality of the commercial wheat berry and the flour it makes.
You might think, “Wheat is wheat—what can they do that
makes commercial varieties so bad?” Listen up, because you
are in for a surprise!
It was the cultivation of grains—members
of the grass family—that made civilization possible.
1 Since wheat is one of the oldest known grains,
its cultivation is as old as civilization itself. Some accounts
suggest that mankind has used this wholesome food since 10,000 to
15,000 years BC.2 Upon opening Egyptian tombs archeologists discovered
large earthenware jars full of wheat to “sustain” the
Pharaohs in the afterlife. Hippocrates, the father of medicine,
was said to recommend stone-ground flour for its beneficial effects
on the digestive tract. Once humans figured out how to grind wheat,
they discovered that when water is added it can be naturally fermented
and turned into beer and expandable dough.
2 Botonists have identified almost 30,000 varieties
of wheat, which are assigned to one of several classifications according
to their planting schedule and nutrient composition3—hard
red winter, hard red spring, soft red winter, durum, hard white
and soft white. Spring wheat is planted in the spring, and winter
wheat is planted in the fall and shoots up the next spring to mature
that summer. Soft, hard, and durum (even harder) wheats are classified
according to the strength of their kernel. This strength is a function
of the protein-to-starch ratio in the endosperm (the starchy middle
layer of the seed). Hard wheats contain less starch, leaving a stronger
protein matrix.
3 With the advent of modern farming, the number
of varieties of wheat in common use has been drastically reduced.
Today, just a few varieties account for 90 percent of the wheat
grown in the world.
When grown in well-nourished, fertile soil, whole
wheat is rich in vitamin E and B complex, many minerals, including
calcium and iron, as well as omega-3 fatty acids. Proper growing
and milling methods are necessary to preserve these nutrients and
prevent rancidity. Unfortunately, due to the indiscretions inflicted
by contemporary farming and processing on modern wheat, many people
have become intolerant or even allergic to this nourishing grain.
These indiscretions include depletion of the soil through the use
of chemical fertilizers, pesticides and other chemicals, high-heat
milling, refining and improper preparation, such as extrusion.
Rather than focus on soil fertility and careful
selection of seed to produce varieties tailored to a particular
micro-climate, modern farming practices use high-tech methods to
deal with pests and disease, leading to overdependence on chemicals
and other substances.
IT STARTS WITH THE SEED
Even before they are planted in the ground, wheat seeds receive
an application of fungicides and insecticides. Fungicides are used
to control diseases of seeds and seedlings; insecticides are used
to control insect pests, killing them as they feed on the seed or
emerging seedling.7 Seed companies often use mixtures of different
seed-treatment fungicides or insecticides to control a broader spectrum
of seed pests.
PESTICIDES AND FERTILIZERS
Some of the main chemicals (insecticides, herbicides and fungicides)
used on commercial wheat crops are disulfoton (Di-syston), methyl
parathion, chlorpyrifos, dimethoate, diamba and glyphosate.9
Although all these chemicals are approved for use and considered
safe, consumers are wise to reduce their exposure as much as possible.
Besides contributing to the overall toxic load in our bodies, these
chemicals increase our susceptibility to neurotoxic diseases as
well as to conditions like cancer.10
Many of these pesticides function as xenoestrogens, foreign estrogen
that can reap havoc with our hormone balance and may be a contributing
factor to a number of health conditions. For example, researchers
speculate these estrogen-mimicking chemicals are one of the contributing
factors to boys and girls entering puberty at earlier and earlier
ages. They have also been linked to abnormalities and hormone-related
cancers including fibrocystic breast disease, breast cancer and
endometriosis.
HORMONES ON WHEAT?
Sounds strange, but farmers apply hormone-like substances or “plant
growth regulators” that affect wheat characteristics, such
as time of germination and strength of stalk.11 These hormones are
either “natural,” that is, extracted from other plants,
or synthetic. Cycocel is a synthetic hormone that is commonly applied
to wheat.
Moreover, research is being conducted on how to
manipulate the naturally occurring hormones in wheat and other grains
to achieve “desirable” changes, such as regulated germination
and an increased ability to survive in cold weather.12
No studies exist that isolate the health risks of eating hormone-manipulated
wheat or varieties that have been exposed to hormone application.
However, there is substantial evidence about the dangers of increasing
our intake of hormone-like substances.
CHEMICALS USED IN STORAGE
Chemical offenses don’t stop after the growing process. The
long storage of grains makes them vulnerable to a number of critters.
Before commercial grain is even stored, the collection bins are
sprayed with insecticide, inside and out. More chemicals are added
while the bin is filled. These so-called “protectants”
are then added to the upper surface of the grain as well as four
inches deep into the grain to protect against damage from moths
and other insects entering from the top of the bin. The list of
various chemicals used includes chlorpyrifos-methyl, diatomaceous
earth, bacillus thuringiensis, cy-fluthrin, malathion and pyrethrins.
Then there is the threshold test. If there is
one live insect per quart of sample, fumigation is initiated. The
goal of fumigation is to “maintain a toxic concentration of
gas long enough to kill the target pest population.” The toxic
chemicals penetrate the entire storage facility as well as the grains
being treated. Two of the fumigants used include methyl bromide
and phosphine-producing materials, such as magnesium phosphide or
aluminum phosphide.
GRAIN DRYING
Heat damage is a serious problem that results from the artificial
drying of damp grain at high temperatures. Overheating causes denaturing
of the protein26 and can also partially cook the protein, ruining
the flour’s baking properties and nutritional value. According
to Ed Lysenko, who tests grain by baking it into bread for the Canadian
Grain Commission’s grain research laboratory, wheat can be
dried without damage by using re-circulating batch dryers, which
keep the wheat moving during drying. He suggests an optimal drying
temperature of 60 degrees Celsius (140 degrees Fahrenheit).27 Unfortunately,
grain processors do not always take these precautions.
MODERN PROCESSING
The damage inflicted on wheat does not end with cultivation and
storage, but continues into milling and processing. A grain kernel
is comprised of three layers: the bran, the germ and the endosperm.
The bran is the outside layer where most of the fiber exists. The
germ is the inside layer where many nutrients and essential fatty
acids are found. The endosperm is the starchy middle layer. The
high nutrient density associated with grains exists only when these
three are intact. The term whole grain refers to the grain before
it has been milled into flour. It was not until the late nineteenth
century that white bread, biscuits, and cakes made from white flour
and sugars became mainstays in the diets of industrialized nations,
and these products were only made possible with the invention of
high-speed milling machines.28 Dr. Price observed the unmistakable
consequences of these dietary changes during his travels and documented
their corresponding health effects. These changes not only resulted
in tooth decay, but problems with fertility, mental health and disease
progression.
Flour was originally produced by grinding grains
between large stones. The final product, 100 percent stone-ground
whole-wheat flour, contained everything that was in the grain, including
the germ, fiber, starch and a wide variety of vitamins and minerals.
Without refrigeration or chemical preservatives, fresh stone-ground
flour spoils quickly. After wheat has been ground, natural wheat-germ
oil becomes rancid at about the same rate that milk becomes sour,
so refrigeration of whole grain breads and flours is necessary.
Technology’s answer to these issues has been to apply faster,
hotter and more aggressive processing.
Since grinding stones are not fast enough for
mass-production, the industry uses high-speed, steel roller mills
that eject the germ and the bran. Much of this “waste product”—the
most nutritious part of the grain—is sold as “byproducts”
for animals. The resulting white flour contains only a fraction
of the nutrients of the original grain. Even whole wheat flour is
compromised during the modern milling process. High-speed mills
reach 400 degrees Fahrenheit, and this heat destroys vital nutrients
and creates rancidity in the bran and the germ. Vitamin E in the
germ is destroyed—a real tragedy because whole wheat used
to be our most readily available source of vitamin E.
Literally dozens of dough conditioners and preservatives
go into modern bread, as well as toxic ingredients like partially
hydrogenated vegetable oils and soy flour. Soy flour—loaded
with antinutrients—is added to virtually all brand-name breads
today to improve rise and prevent sticking. The extrusion process,
used to make cold breakfast cereals and puffed grains, adds insult
to injury with high temperatures and high pressures that create
additional toxic components and further destroy nutrients—even
the synthetic vitamins that are added to replace the ones destroyed
by refinement and milling.
People have become accustomed to the mass-produced,
gooey, devitalized, and nutritionally deficient breads and baked
goods and have little recollection of how real bread should taste.
Chemical preservatives allow bread to be shipped long distances
and to remain on the shelf for many days without spoiling and without
refrigeration.
HEALTHY WHOLE WHEAT PRODUCTS
Ideally, one should buy whole wheat berries and grind them fresh
to make homemade breads and other baked goods. Buy whole wheat berries
that are grown organically or biodynamically—biodynamic farming
involves higher standards than organic.34 Since these forms of farming
do not allow synthetic, carcinogenic chemicals and fertilizers,
purchasing organic or biodynamic wheat assures that you are getting
the cleanest, most nutritious food possible. It also automatically
eliminates the possibility of irradiation31 and genetically engineered
seed. The second best option is to buy organic 100 percent stone-ground
whole-wheat flour at a natural food store. Slow-speed, steel hammer-mills
are often used instead of stones, and flours made in this way can
list “stone-ground” on the label. This method is equivalent
to the stone-ground process and produces a product that is equally
nutritious. Any process that renders the entire grain into usable
flour without exposing it to high heat is acceptable.
If you do not make your own bread, there are ready
made alternatives available. Look for organic sourdough or sprouted
breads freshly baked or in the freezer compartment of your market
or health food store. If bread is made entirely with l00 percent
stone-ground whole grains, it will state so on the label. When bread
is stone ground and then baked, the internal temperature does not
usually exceed 170 degrees, so most of the nutrients are preserved.28
As they contain no preservatives, both whole wheat flour and its
products should be kept in the refrigerator or freezer. Stone-ground
flour will keep for several months frozen.
Sprouting, soaking and genuine sourdough leavening
“pre-digests” grains, allowing the nutrients to be more
easily assimilated and metabolized. This is an age-old approach
practiced in most traditional cultures. Sprouting begins germination,
which increases the enzymatic activity in foods and inactivates
substances called enzyme inhibitors.1 These enzyme inhibitors prevent
the activation of the enzymes present in the food and, therefore,
may hinder optimal digestion and absorption. Soaking neutralizes
phytic acid, a component of plant fiber found in the bran and hulls
of grains, legumes, nuts, and seeds that reduces mineral absorption.32
All of these benefits may explain why sprouted foods are less likely
to produce allergic reactions in those who are sensitive.
Sprouting also causes a beneficial modification
of various nutritional elements. According to research undertaken
at the University of Minnesota, sprouting increases the total nutrient
density of a food. For example, sprouted whole wheat was found to
have 28 percent more thiamine (B1), 315 percent more riboflavin
(B2), 66 percent more niacin (B3), 65 percent more pantothenic acid
(B5), 111 percent more biotin, 278 percent more folic acid, and
300 percent more vitamin C than non-sprouted whole wheat. This phenomenon
is not restricted to wheat. All grains undergo this type of quantitative
and qualitative transformation. These studies also confirmed a significant
increase in enzymes, which means the nutrients are easier to digest
and absorb.
You have several options for preparing your wheat.
You can use a sour leavening method by mixing whey, buttermilk or
yogurt with freshly ground wheat or quality pre-ground wheat from
the store. Or, soak your berries whole for 8 to 22 hours, then drain
and rinse. There are some recipes that use the whole berries while
they are wet, such as cracker dough ground right in the food processor.
Another option is to dry sprouted wheat berries in a low-temperature
oven or dehydrator, and then grind them in your grain mill and then
use the flour in a variety or recipes.
Although our modern wheat suffers from a great number of indiscretions,
there are steps we can take to find the quality choices that will
nourish us today and for the long haul. Go out and make a difference
for you and yours and turn your wheaty indiscretions into wheaty
indulgences.
________________________________________
SPELT AND KAMUT
Spelt is a distant cousin to modern wheat and
one of the oldest cultivated grains. Current research indicates
few differences between hard red wheat and Canadian spelt. Researchers
have also found evidence supporting the claim that spelt may be
easier for humans to digest than wheat.4 Modern wheat has been altered
over the years through breeding to simplify its growth and harvesting,
increase its yield and raise its gluten content for the production
of commercial baked goods—all of which has rendered modern
wheat more difficult to digest. Spelt, on the other hand, has not
been as popular in our food supply and has therefore retained many
of its original traits. Kamut is also an ancient relative of modern
wheat, durum wheat to be exact. Actually, “kamut” is
an ancient word for wheat. Similar to spelt, this grain has been
untouched by modern plant-breeding techniques that have been imposed
on wheat.
________________________________________
IRRADIATION
Wheat and wheat flour were some of the first foods
the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approved for irradiation.15
A 1963 ruling applied to imported grains. In 1968, the FDA approved
irradiation for US wheat berries and flour to control insects.16
Irradiation is the practice of using either high-speed electron
beams or high-energy radiation to break chemical bonds and ionize
molecules that lie in their path.17 According to proponents of this
technology, irradiation can provide more food security for the world
by eradicating storage pests in grain, killing fruit flies in fruit,
preventing mold growth, delaying ripening, preventing the sprouting
of potatoes, onions and garlic, and extending the shelf life of
meat, fish and shellfish – all without health consequences.
However, research tells us something quite different.
One particularly interesting study on the dangers
of irradiation was published in The American Journal of Clinical
Nutrition18 in 1975. Ten children were divided into two groups of
five. Before the trial started, blood samples were taken and examined
for each child. The diets given to each group were identical except
the wheat for the experimental group had been irradiated two or
three days earlier with a dose recommended for grain disinfestation.
After four weeks, the examination of blood samples showed abnormal
cell formation in four of the five children given irradiated wheat.
No signs of abnormal cell development appeared in the control group.
One particularly disturbing cell type found in
the experimental group was polyploid lymph. Lymph is a vital component
of the immune system, and these abnormal varieties occur routinely
in patients undergoing radiation treatment. In fact, the level of
these abnormal lymph cells is often used as a measure of radiation
exposure for people accidentally exposed to radiation.19 After six
weeks, blood samples were taken again and a sharp increase of polyploid
lymph cells was seen when compared to the level at four weeks. Because
of concern for the children’s health, the study was terminated.
It was argued that the main culprit in the increase
of cell abnormalities was the fact the wheat was “freshly
irradiated.” Therefore, a subsequent study looked at the effects
of feeding wheat that had been irradiated and then stored for 12
weeks. The polyploid cells took a little longer to show up—six
weeks instead of four. After the irradiated wheat had been withdrawn,
it took 24 weeks before the blood of the test children reverted
to normal.
To verify their results, the researchers continued
with experimental animals and found the same results in both monkeys
and rats—a progressive increase of polyploid lymph cells and
a gradual disappearance of these cells after withdrawal of the irradiated
wheat.20 ,21 ,22 ,23 Thus, the dangers of irradiated foods are evident,
whether the food has been freshly irradiated or stored for a period
of time. Other long-term health implications from eating irradiated
foods include lowered immune resistance, decreased fertility, damage
to kidneys, depressed growth rates, as well as a reduction in vitamins
A, B complex, C, E and K.24
________________________________________
NUTRIENT LOSS FROM REFINING OF WHEAT29
Thiamine (B1) 77%
Riboflavin (B2) 80%
Niacin 81%
Pyridoxine (B6) 72%
Pantothenic acid 50%
Vitamin E 86%
Calcium 60%
Phosphorous 71%
Magnesium 84%
Potassium 77%
Sodium 78%
Chromium 40%
Manganese 86%
Iron 76%
Cobalt 89%
Zinc 78%
Copper 68%
Selenium 16%
Molybdenum 48%
________________________________________
GENETICALLY ENGINEERED WHEAT
Genetic Engineering (GE) is the process of altering
or disrupting the genetic blueprints of living organisms—plants,
trees, fish, animals and microorganisms. Genes are spliced to incorporate
a new characteristic or function into an organism. For example,
scientists can mix a gene from a cold-water fish into a strawberry
plant’s DNA so it can withstand colder temperatures. So far,
the most widely used GE foods are soy, cotton and corn. Monsanto
hopes to commercialize Roundup Ready Wheat sometime between 2003
and 2005. This crop will join the company of a number of crops engineered
to resist the Roundup herbicide.
Proponents of GE claim that this “technology”
will make agriculture sustainable, eliminate world hunger, cure
disease and improve public health—but have they factored in
the enormous risks? When surveyed, most consumers do not want to
eat genetically modified foods, and even commercial farmers are
wary. Wheat farmers are scared of the Starlink corn fiasco. Iowa
farmers planted one percent of their 2000 corn crop as Starlink,
a genetically engineered corn approved only for animal consumption.
By harvest time, almost 50 percent of the Iowa crop tested positive
for Starlink. Product recalls, consumer outcry and export difficulties
have ensued. This mistake resulted in the recall of hundreds of
millions of dollars of food products and seeds. In regards to exporting,
our overseas consumers say they will not accept any wheat that has
been genetically engineered. For this reason, Monsanto has put the
development of GE wheat on temporary hold.
________________________________________
USING WHEAT IN BAKING
When deciding which wheat berries to use for baking,
the main categories to consider are hard and soft. Hard wheat is
higher in protein, particularly gluten, making it more elastic and
the best choice for making breads. Gluten traps carbon dioxide during
the leavening process, allowing the dough to rise. Durum wheats,
used mostly for pasta, are even harder. Soft wheats are lower in
protein and are more appropriate for cookies, crackers, soda breads
and other baked goods.
This article appeared in Wise Traditions in Food, Farming and the
Healing Arts, the quarterly magazine of the Weston A. Price Foundation,
Spring 2003
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